Hoops, Hoop Skirts, Crinolines, Cage-Crinolines, Steel Petticoats, Oval Hoops, and Elliptical Hoops
Cage-crinolines were invented in 1856, the term referring to a particular style of crinoline that was constructed as a wire cage. They were made of watch-spring steel (fine steel). Initially they were dome shaped but evolved into this elliptical shape – tight at the hips with the width thrust out in back. Many pictures of cage-crinolines have fabric or ruffles around the bottom of the hoops, like this moderately sized one in the V&A. Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine in May 1862 claimed that this “assist[s] to throw the dress out at the bottom” while Peterson’s in May 1863 claimed that this prevents the shape of the steel from showing. In my experience, the bottom fabric prevents you from accidently sticking your foot through the hoop wires while you’re dancing or walking up steps.
Moving in hoops can be a challenge – while your feet have plenty of room to move, if you take long steps it will set the hoops to swinging like a bell, so you have to walk with very short strides. When you sit down, you need to reach down and grab one of the wires and pull it up before sitting, otherwise the hoop may flip up. (Aim for one of the wires at about wrist-height if your arm was hanging down by your side.) Cage crinolines and fabric crinolines move slightly differently – this is most noticeable when you’re sinking to the floor from a standing position – a cage crinoline collapses elegantly around you, whereas a fabric crinoline looks like you have a pillow billowing up around you. Unfortunately, if you drop something, bending your knees and squatting is your only option, as the corset won’t let you bend at the waist (unless there’s a convenient gentleman nearby to pick it up for you).
For more examples of hoops, check Démodé’s links to extant women’s clothing.
Elliptical Hoop Patterns
There are many circular hoop patterns due to the popularity of U.S. Civil War reenactment. However, there are relatively few elliptical hoop patterns available. When making your outfit, be sure to make your hoop before the over-petticoat and before your skirt, otherwise you run the risk that the hoop will be too big for your skirt and/or petticoat. Also, the size and shape of the hoop will dramatically affect the length (and thus the hem) of the garments worn over it.Laughing Moon #112 Hoops and Bustles
Farthingales discusses this pattern
Katherine Caron-Greig's version
View B is the elliptical hoop. I haven't tried this pattern but it looks just like some of the extant examples.
Truly Victorian TV103 1865 Elliptical Cage Crinoline
Jennifer Lithgrow's version
Dana Mitchen's version
This is the only cage crinoline pattern on the market. It's designed for the modernly available hoop wire, which doesn't look very similar to the narrow circular vintage hoop wire, but has the benefit of not rusting.
Ageless Patterns #1515 1868 Hoop Skirt
Based solely on the picture it is hard to tell if this is an elliptical hoop, it might be the small crinoline that was combined with a bustle pad to create the early bustle silhouette. Ageless patterns reprints patterns from Victorian & Edwardian fashion journals. They're printed on heavy paper but come in only one size and have very minimal sewing instructions (usually just what the fashion journal said about the sewing the pattern). You will need to adjust the sizes of these patterns, and they are not like modern patterns. These are only recommended for experienced sewers.
Norah Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines
(UK readers, use this link)
page 94
This is the only book available that focuses on bustles and hoop skirts, and is an amazing resource. It has patterns from the Elizabethan era to the end of the Victorian era. You will have to blow the patterns up and resize them for yourself. The pattern pieces don't always match each other - the patterns are more suggested shapes then exact patterns. A recommended reference for everyone, but only to be used as a pattern guide for experienced sewers. No sewing instructions are included.
Jean Hunnisett's Period Costume for Stage & Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress, 1800-1909
(UK readers, use this link)
pages 100-104
An expensive book, but I use my copy all the time. It covers the entire 19th century (primarily dresses, but its sections on undergarments are invaluable). I have not tried the crinoline instructions. It doesn't really have a pattern per se but it gives step-by-step instructions for making a crinoline. [Ahem, excuse me for interrupting, Sunny - I've used the instructions you mention and they were brilliant. I made the biggest, most complex cage crinoline in the book from a standing start (ie never made a cage crinoline before) and it came out great. Highly recommended. - Cathy]
