Your Wardrobe Unlock'd

The widespread use of French Hoods amongst the middle and upper classes of 16^th century England is a surprisingly static phenomenon.

Even as clothing styles changed with relative fluidity throughout the century, the constant favor that the French Hood had found allows us to examine its progression of style in a much more comprehensive manner.

I offer my theories in addition to positing new ideas as to how French Hoods were likely constructed between the years of 1530 and 1560, as well as how they evolved after their heyday had passed.

This month we feature excerpts from a pro-dress reform book written in 1873. Mrs. Stuart Phelps did not lack for enthusiasm in her distaste for the styles of the day, considering them utterly impratical and accusing them of hindering women in their advancement towards equality with men.

Burn up the corsets! Make a bonfire of the cruel steel that has lorded it over the contents of the abdomen and thorax so many thoughtless years, and heave a sigh of relief; for your "emancipation," I assure you, has from this moment begun.

Kass McGann has lectured on the subject of historical clothing on three continents, publishing articles on specific items of historic dress as well as how-to guides for reenactors.

Unlike many costume historians who describe what clothing of a certain period looks like, Kass seeks to understand how it was made. Her business, Reconstructing History, makes this information available worldwide with an extensive line of historical dressmaker patterns that are exacting in historical detail and include copious notes of interest and simple directions.

Kass talks to us this month about where her obsession came from, where she intends to take it, and how she deals with projects that won't behave themselves!